Event Previews & Reviews from Provence

More than just an exhibition of photography, Les Recontres d'Arles is a three month long photography festival, with seminars and workshops that takes over the city of Arles each summer. 

In many ways the Christmas holidays in Provence are not much different than those elsewhere. Towns and villages are decorated with lights and evergreens, shops do a brisk business with the sales of Christmas decorations, toys, perfumes, electronic gadgets and other thoughtful gifts. Mailboxes are stuffed with catalogs from supermarkets, encouraging people to add foie gras, langoustine, oysters or champagne to the holiday dinner tables. But there are details in the celebration that are unique to Provence.

The city of Nimes is well worth a visit in its own right; it’s got all the classic attractions like the amphitheatre, Maison Carrée, roman ruins and a fantastically huge park at the north of the city which is great for a stroll around with views spanning the entire city.

The black bull is pawing the ground and bellowing in anger. A man darts past the bull, deftly plucking a tassel from its horns and sprints away. The bull charges across the sandy arena, almost catching the man before he leaps over the head-high barrier to safety. As the bull crashes into the wooden fence behind him, music from Bizet’s Carmen blasts out and the delighted crowd applauds the bull’s spirit and the man’s bravery.

At this time of the year (May) the local vineyards look spruced up, the leaves green, the paths cleared of weeds, the tiny grapes ready to develop. It is just a matter of time and patience, a little rain and lots of sunshine, before the September harvest can begin. A perfect time, so a French national wine association must have decided, to celebrate what is and what is to come, by creating a day of the vineyard and the wine - La Fete de la Vigne & du Vin.

If there is any flower to represent Provence, it has to be the lavender. You find it everywhere in stores and market stalls. It's in the little sachets that you put in your closets to add a whiff of fragrance to your garments. It's in the perfume bottles of Grasse. It's in honey, oils, even ice cream.

Friday marked the first performance of 'Mondes Magiques' at the Pont du Gard. A truly epic display or lighting and fireworks, this is an event not to be missed.

In September, the tranquil countryside of Provence undergoes a dramatic change. Heads pop up in the vineyards, farmers stoically take over the departmental roads with tractors pulling the harvest to the coopérative. It's the month of the Vendange!

One of the great pleasures of spending time, even for a day, in Provence is to visit a local market. Practically every town or village has a weekly market - sometimes more often - where fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese and roasted chicken, herbs and olives, t-shirts and flip-flops are sold.

The grapes have been harvested, the boats have left Saint-Tropez, and many hotels and restaurants are closing up for the winter season. With daylight now fading away at the end of the afternoon, it looks like the perfect moment to start your hibernation. But wait! There's still one party to go to: the chestnut festival.