Event Previews & Reviews from Provence

The city of Nimes is well worth a visit in its own right; it’s got all the classic attractions like the amphitheatre, Maison Carrée, roman ruins and a fantastically huge park at the north of the city which is great for a stroll around with views spanning the entire city.

It's the beginning of October and the crazy summer crowds appear to have left the port of Saint-Tropez. The painters still display their art, but in a month they too will take their easels elsewhere, perhaps working on next year's supply.

One of the most pleasant ways to spend a vacation in Provence and learn something to boot is by signing up for one of the cooking schools in the south of France. There is a wide choice of schools and courses, some of which are booked a year or longer in advance.

In September, the tranquil countryside of Provence undergoes a dramatic change. Heads pop up in the vineyards, farmers stoically take over the departmental roads with tractors pulling the harvest to the coopérative. It's the month of the Vendange!

If there is any flower to represent Provence, it has to be the lavender. You find it everywhere in stores and market stalls. It's in the little sachets that you put in your closets to add a whiff of fragrance to your garments. It's in the perfume bottles of Grasse. It's in honey, oils, even ice cream.

In many ways the Christmas holidays in Provence are not much different than those elsewhere. Towns and villages are decorated with lights and evergreens, shops do a brisk business with the sales of Christmas decorations, toys, perfumes, electronic gadgets and other thoughtful gifts. Mailboxes are stuffed with catalogs from supermarkets, encouraging people to add foie gras, langoustine, oysters or champagne to the holiday dinner tables. But there are details in the celebration that are unique to Provence.

When driving through Provence you may stumble upon a large flock of sheep, guided by its shepherd and driven by a trio of smart dogs. Much less common than a hundred or even fifty years ago, these flocks nevertheless subsist in the same way as they did then. During the winter and spring months they remain in the lower regions, during the summer and autumn the return to higher altitudes. The long trek from low to high, and vice versa, is called La Transhumance.