© seeprovence.com
The Fete de la Transhumance
Traditional herding of the flocks to the summer pastures
When driving through Provence you may stumble upon a large flock of sheep, guided by its shepherd and driven by a trio of smart dogs. Much less common than a hundred or even fifty years ago, these flocks nevertheless subsist in the same way as they did then. During the winter and spring months they remain in the lower regions, during the summer and autumn the return to higher altitudes. The long trek from low to high, and vice versa, is called La Transhumance.
In the spring it is an occasion for communal celebration, starting with a traffic-stopping walk through the village. A day after our local fête de la Transhumance, we found the shepherd enjoying his lunch time under the trees, joined by his sheep that equally preferred the shade over the midday sun. We asked if he would be willing to share his knowledge of sheep and sheep-herding, about which, as we quickly learned, we knew next to nothing. Mistral (a more Provençal name is not imaginable) was quite willing and invited us to sit down on the pine needles.
Note: The verb "sacrifice" (sacrifier) is a French euphemism for slaughter. If this may seem harsh, consider that shepherding this way is more natural than many of today's forms of husbandry.
AboutProvence: How many sheep do you have?
Mistral: About 2000. With the new lambs sometimes more, but then the older ones are sacrificed and it's back to around 2000
AP: When do you start the Transhumance?
Mistral: On June 13.
AP: Where do you take them?
Mistral: To Allos [ed: in the Alpes de Haute-Provence]
AP: That's, what, 150 km from here? [Mistral nods] I've read that today the sheep are transported by trucks.
Mistral [laughs]: No, no, we do it on foot. We can't afford a truck.
AP: How long does it take you? Where do you sleep?
Mistral: It takes about ten days. Actually, first we go to Allons, that's about two days south of Allos. Then when it gets hotter, we go higher to Allos. And in November we return by the same route. Beginning of December we're back here again. We sleep out in the open or, when it rains, in a tent.
AP: During the Transhumance you must cross quite a few departmental roads. Isn't that dangerous for the sheep?
Mistral: We walk during the night and early morning. We get up around 1 a.m. and walk until 9, or so. There is not much traffic then. Many people don't like to be stuck when a flock passes the road. Also, during the day it is too hot for the sheep. I haven't had an accident with a sheep yet.
AP: I'm a bit ignorant about sheep and have always wondered what the difference is between a mouton and a brebis.
Mistral: A brebis is a ewe, a female sheep. A mouton is a castrated ram.
AP: A castrated ram! Why would you do that? If you don't need a ram for reproduction, isn't it smarter to sacrifice it while still a lamb?
Mistral: Moutons are excellent leaders. They carry a bell around their neck, always walk in front, the rest follows. And the dogs follow at the back to round up the stray ones. As the summer and autumn go on, the moutons get heavier and heavier. You hear the bells clinging slower and slower. For the trek back you need new leaders.
AP: I hope you have a safe Transhumance. By the way, which do you prefer: the lower regions or Allos?
Mistral: Right now, I can't wait to go to the mountains, but when it starts getting so cold in November, I'd rather be here.
