Restaurant Reviews in Provence — 17 of Our Favourites

As lovers of steak tartare this restaurant seemed like an obvious choice for us. A relatively new restaurant, opening in Summer 2012, the local B&B we were staying at had not yet heard of the Tartares Club so with promises of a report back for local knowledge we set off at the more European time of 9pm for dinner.

On first impressions the Tartares Club seems out of place on the old Provencal street of Avenue Durand Maillane, with its large white sofas and chairs with multicoloured cushions, arty decor on the terrace out front, and the hip and chic feel on the inside. However the decor, atmosphere and staff instantly make you feel relaxed and at home in a warm and trendy setting.

After finding a parking spot just outside the restaurant we were greeted with a friendly smile and seated to a cosy and comfy table on the downstairs terrace. Drinks were our first port of call so after browsing over the cocktail menu we opted for a couple of glasses of local house rosé, which had a light dry taste and arrived with crudités accompanied by 2 fresh dips. The wine menu consisted of local Provencal wines starting from around 24€ a bottle, with house glasses at 5€. With an extensive selection of champagnes, beers and spirits there are tipples for everyone.

Browsing over the menu our mouths started to water with the list of fresh ingredients and tempting dishes. Who knew there were so many different ways to have steak tartare? From veggie options to fish to steak; from the original Tartare Francais to the more unusual Tartare Oriental (infused with a variety of herbs and spices from Asia), making a choice was proving to be difficult. In the end we ordered the Tartare de legumes a la ricotta et son jus de roquette for starter: a fresh and succulent tartare made up of aubergine, courgettes peppers and pressed tomatoes with a layer of ricotta in the centre which was truly a delight to eat. We also ordered the Tartare d'artichaut a l'estragon: an artichoke, tomato and mozzarella tartare and we were far from disappointed - the chunky slices of artichoke with the sweet tomatoes and creamy mozzarella were delicious.

Next up we ordered the tastebud-tantalizing mains, they were superb. We went for one steak tartare: Tartare Italien and one fish tartare: Duo de tartares thon et saumon. On ordering the steak tartare we were asked if we would like it completely raw, seared or completely cooked - we opted for raw, but the option is a nice touch for those of you whose stomachs don't like the sound of raw meat! When the main courses came out and we tucked in silence followed, always a sign of a scrumptious meal I think.

The duo of salmon and tuna tartare was served with jasmine rice and soy sauce making the perfect accompaniments to the fresh and juicy fish that just melted in your mouth. The Italian tartare was a delectable dish, the combination of the fresh steak sliced into perfectly sized edible chunks, the capers, pine nuts, onions, basil, parmesan, balsamic vinegar and olive oil made your mouth go wild with exciting and fresh flavours, not to forget the chunky potato chips on the side. For dessert we asked our waitress what she would recommend, and immediately she said the Nems au chocolat: chocolate spring rolls served with a salted caramel butter.... there is nothing else to say but YUM!

Tartares Club was a great place for a cosy yet chic meal with delicious, mouth-watering food and excellent service - I will definitely be heading back next time I am in Saint Remy. The only downside to the meal would have to be the quiet of the restaurant: with only a few other tables the atmosphere was a little calm, but nothing the music softly playing in the background couldn't disguise. It's also worth noting that the terrace at the front sits on the road, but with so few cars trundling along this was hardly a problem.

The Tartares Club has 2 restaurants one in Saint Remy de Provence and the other in Gordes, open every day in high season.

The restaurant commandeers the whole end of the impasse with interior seating on both sides and an outdoor terrace along the street, being late evening we ducked into the open sided interior which was decorated in traditional Provencal style giving the fresh evening a warm feel.

One of the advantages of eating late is the dedicated service, so shortly after sitting down we were brought over the chalkboard menu. It didn't take us long to chose from the menu of Provencal plats and Italian pizzas or pastas, as we had already established we wanted a full formule.
I opted for the Soupe de Poisson to start while JetSet went for the Legume Tartare.

The soup was served straight up in a traditional saucepan and was accompanied by the all important rouille (a pungent Provençal sauce of garlic and olive oil), grated cheese and croutons. The soup was already flavoursome but adding little rouille topped toasts added a bit of gusto and texture. The tartare was fresh, served with a helping of tapenade the sweet and crunchy vegetables were met with a savoury oily match.

For mains I needed a bit of manning up after a long day cycling around Provence (yes I know they were electric bikes but still..) and went for the Ox Ragu with penne pasta. The ragu had a slow-cooked tenderness to the meat and a full flavoured sauce. JetSet went with the healthy-fat option of a Salmon Steak, which was served with a not so healthy creamy sauce and home baked potato wedges. Needless to say the last few potato wedges ended up on my plate so I can certify they were home baked..

Due to the possible pasta and potato carb overloading we decided to share a single dessert, settling on a lemon meringue tart. The tart had a perfectly crunchy base, but the lemon filling was not tangy enough for my taste-buds. This in no way stopped us from licking the plate clean...

The evening formule came in at a very affordable €21 for three courses or €16 for two.

We were met with a friendly, relaxed welcome from Fanny herself who was happy to accommodate us even at the indigestible time of half past two.

It appears that service slows down after two as we waited a little while before being presented the chalk board with today's specials, but I was happy enough just to be able to sit-down after Miss JetSet had insisted on looking at every stand on the market. Nevertheless we had time to eavesdrop on neighbouring tables, and convinced ourselves we made a good choice as they all seemed to be locals.

The chalkboard replaces any kind of printed menu (at least for lunch) and presents a wide choice of tapas, salads, main dishes and desserts. Arriving late meant we missed a few options from the board, which must have been the popular choices so after a bit of deliberation JetSet opted for a fresh tuna steak whilst I went crazy and chose the Fanny Salad.

Despite the slow introduction we were served our lunch soon after ordering, however it turned out to be long enough for the tuna steak to be overcooked, shame. The two tuna steaks were served with a balsamic reduction, which made up for the now dry tuna steaks. Accompanied by a veritable chilled ratatouille and salad, Jetset turned out to be quietly happy with her choice.

As for the Fanny salad (please, we're in France remember..) I was also pleased to see a salad that veered away from the norm. The salad was served with a croute and topped with turkey cuts and served with a soy vinaigrette. I imagine creating daily specials will include a few unusual mixes, this one worked but I'm not convinced it should claim the name for the house special.

The salad was priced at an even €14.50 whilst the tuna steaks were a very reasonable €13.50.

We declined the offer of dessert and finished with an espresso and a tisane whilst debating whether or not it is a real magnet above the bar with a hundred knives and forks clinging to it...

The terrace had a noisy buzz to it with a few lively tables and passing scooters in the night, but was matched with a serene decoration of vines overhead and soft fairy lights.

Having already splurged on a big late lunch we were intent on having a refreshing light salad. Jetset claimed the Salade du Jour without any hesitancy so I was left to choose from the runner-ups on the salad list.
Classics are good way of making fair comparisons but can sometimes lack excitment, neverthless classics are classics for good reason. So a Salade Nicoise it was then.

The Salade du Jour was presented as a simple trio of local tomatoes, however on arrival it was much more than that. The salad featured three types of tomatoes (Noire de Crimée, Ananas Jaune & Beefsteak) sandwiched between some succulent mozzarella and drizzled in an olive oil rich pesto. Accompanied with a creamy seafood salad for a bit of all important protein, and a chunky fresh fruit salad which worked perfectly as a light dessert to finish the meal off.

Unfortunately I have a lot less to say of the Nicoise salad, in fact I only have one word ; average. Average portion size, average olives, average beans and an average salad dressing. The few anchovies on top of the salad helped give the salad some flavour but not enough to save it..

So plus points for the salade du jour, which was €15 but the Nicoise salad, at €11, merely served its purpose.

Must have been a quiet Monday in Avignon, as there were a few seats available on the terrace. The menu du marche sounded appealing with some fresh seasonal products on offer.

The starter was a warm Tarbais bean salad with half of the Pyrenean beans left crunchy and the other half made to melt in your mouth, all mixed in with some sweet roast peppers.

The mains was a Gardianne de taureau, superbly cooked chunks of beef from the Camargue in a rich wine and olive sauce. Fresh and light linguine accompanied which were lightly buttered and perfectly cooked.

Although this street does have the towering Palais des Papes to look onto, the Isle Sonnate has an elegant bistro interior, a quiet street side terrace and some sophisticated touches such as crisp linen serviettes and silver cutlery.

All in all the Ilse Sonnate serves up a fine a selection of local foods with a air of elegance that you might not expect for the price you pay.

Peeking inside, the contemporary interior with large windows looking out onto the pretty archways would suit autumnal evenings of winter lunchtimes.

Sitting down to one of the last few remaining tables, the waitress presented the menu along with the suggestions du moment. It didn't take me long to to opt for the lunch special, it sounded tasty, simple and seasonal.

The mains was a well presented and genourous serving of roast pork with provencal vegetables. The tender roast pork came with a sweet honey gravy, topped with a chunk of crunchy, not chewy, crackling. Accompanied by some oven baked herb topped provencal tomatoes (unfortunately not as sweet as they could have been, but local producers have complained of a poor season).

More accompangments came in the form of a garlicky baked courgette mousse, the delicate flavour was accentuated with the crisp bronzed top and the airy middle. Finally there was the potato gratin, which really showed off the chefs skills as the potato was so finely grated it transformed the flavour, aspect and completely.

I enjoy saving my favourite flavour for my last mouthful, but here this was a tricky decision; the courgette mousse, the finely grated gratin or the crackling. I settled with a bite size chunk of crackling. 

I was further impressed when the dessert was served, a café gourmand (except being British I opted for a cup of tea). The French have invented a clever dessert combination in my mind, often three bite size sugar hits with an espresso to finish.
In this instance the loose leaf tea came served with four individual homemade desserts.
A Provencal Calisson flavoured ice cream, Calisson is an almond sweet speciality from Aix en Provence, a chantilly topped chocolate and pistachio panna cotta, a hazelnut brownie and a coconut butter baked biscuit.

This wasn't my first café/tea gourmand, but it was certainly the best I've had to date - on par with some of Britains best afternoon teas.

Le Belcour, come here to savour some home cooked flavours that you wouldn't achieve at home..great food & great value.

Monday’s Plat du Jour at the famous Les Deux Garçons is always “Chef’s Suggestion”; hopefully meaning that the dish is always going to be something a little experimental using fresh seasonal vegetables and local meat.

The gorgeous Maître d’ approached and she offered me a choice of two perfectly set tables; either in the sun or in the shade. It was just slightly before the regular lunch-time in France so the terrace hadn’t quite filled up yet. A seat in the sun is well sought-after here so my arrival was timed just perfectly. She brought me some well-oiled bread with a fresh Provençal tapenade and recommended the local white wine, which I hastily agreed to.

The service was fluid and it seemed that I had two, or maybe three, waiters looking after me who know their trade so well that I’m not even disturbed; or asked twice about my order or whether I can be helped. The still-water arrives quickly and the Maître d’ looks over again to beam another welcoming smile in my direction. I speak a little bit of French, and I mean a “little bit”, but it always seems to help when eating in French restaurants and it seems more polite to attempt to ask for more water in the waiters local tongue.

I really like it here. The décor is chic, if not somewhat dated, but that’s part of the essence and elegance of the place – and it holds in its walls all the history of Aix. Influential and famous people throughout recent history have banqueted here and the high standards of service and etiquette still remain today. Names such as Sartre, Picasso, Churchill, Edith Piaf and of course Aix’s own, the much beloved Paul Cézanne have frequented the establishment over the years.

In a way I feel like Owen Wilson’s character must have in Midnight in Paris. There’s something quite familiar about the gold-plated clock which hangs inside; the mirrored interior; the ornate chandeliers, I believe this is how it has always looked and I’m sharing the space with everyone who ever had the good-fortune to dine here.

The staff contain a mixture of youthful exuberance and hardened experience – with all waiters dressed immaculately in a waistcoat, bow tie and crisp white apron. My Plat du Jour is placed on the white cloth in front of me by the most experienced waiter who nods in some sort of approval to me. It is a delectable dish of succulent brochette beef, with soft potatoes and a delicious roasted tomato with an olive tapenade filling. The sun warms the side of my face as I slowly ease the juicy meat off the skewer and enjoy the sophisticated atmosphere of the restaurant.

The people watching here on the Cours Mirabeau is superb as I relax and enjoy a coffee called “The Blue Mountain” which is cultivated at 1800 metres on the high plateaus of Jamaica. The menu says it is “Les meilleur café au monde” or the best coffee in the world and I can’t disagree as it is a great little coffee to finish with.

I had a fine meal here at Les Deux Garçons with great service and it was refreshing to find a spot for lunch which upholds high standards throughout the day. Basking in the sun while enjoying the view along the leafy main street is a great way to enjoy your lunch and even if you didn’t know much of the history that compliments the “café”; it is still a fantastic place in its own right to pass some time during a stay in Aix.

Daily Plats Du Jour are available at Les Deux Garçons which is located on at number 53 Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence.

Their adventure began in Paris itself where they would be invited into established restaurants and offer their locally sourced menu to lucky guests and friends on free nights granted by generous restaurant owners.

In 2015 the restaurant completed a 2-month stint in Arles and because of popular demand in 2016 the restaurant are extending their stay and providing culinary delights up until 2nd of October.

On this sunny afternoon I decided to sit in the canopied terrasse located in the centre of Place du Forum, favouring this over inside the beautifully old-fashioned wine bar which is housed along the side street of Nord-Pinus Hotel. Place du Forum is a bustling hub of restaurants and cafés with sun streaming down between the canopies and set to a pleasant hum of conversation.

The menu of Paris Pop-Up changes weekly. The ingredients used depends on what the owners can source locally; adding to the exclusivity of the restaurant and it will leave you wanting to try all of the options on the menu each week.

To start I ordered white asparagus, smoked fera fish with hazelnuts and lemon powder and a glass of white wine recommended for the meal by Laura, the in-residence wine connoisseur. The fresh and salty fish was seasoned and cooked perfectly and the creative, creamy sauce was an impeccable accompaniment.

The service was prompt and the character of the staff was amazing; always taking time to explain the essence of the restaurant and the menu in detail and making everyone feel welcome. The staff had all been working for the owners of Paris Pop-Up in other cities and they share the same outlook and philosophy regarding what the culinary experience can, and should be.

The only thing I can even vaguely complain about is that I would have liked more time between my starter and main; although that is probably my fault because I spent so much time savouring the starter that the main probably lay in wait for me. The main I decided on was beef from the Ferme de Clavisy matured for 50 days and served with shiitake mushrooms, miso and garlic puree.

I’m a sucker for shiitake mushrooms so anytime I see them on a menu I will more often than not order them; and I was not disappointed. From glancing around the other restaurants that operate in the same area I had no food-envy towards anything else being served. Paris Pop-Up had by far the most succulent, creative and delicately prepared plates.

I had green-tea to finish with served in an ornate clay pot. I didn’t particularly want the tea, but I also didn’t feel ready to leave this atmosphere yet, so I stayed a while longer and relaxed.

The restaurateurs have plans to travel further around the world, with Beijing being a new possibility for them to launch another Pop-Up in the future. I would almost consider jumping on a flight to taste what they would come up with in Beijing if they did. However, for now I am delighted to have sampled such delicious, creative and locally sourced fayre in Arles.

I highly recommend that during the summer months, if you have the opportunity, Paris Pop-Up in Nord-Pinus Hotel is an absolute must go.

Paris Pop-Up has been running in Arles from Aprill 27th and will close up on October 2nd 2016. Get there while you can. Their business hours for lunch are from Thursday to Sunday from 1230 to 1500 and for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday from 1930 to 2300.

The delicious & ever changing menu has fixed prices of €32 for Starter & Main or Main & Dessert or €36 for Starter, Main & Dessert. Tapas and Sharing menus are also available.

With its secluded terrace you could almost forget you are in one of the prettiest villages in the Alpilles but its a perfect shaded haven to enjoy a heavenly meal.

The word on the street is that the burgers here trump some of the best State side concoctions. So despite the temptation of the lobster and mandarin salad or the truffle risotto, the choice was made and the Royal Burger was ordered. Waiting in eager anticipation didn't last long, the joys of eating early a la English.

The Burger Royal came with a foot long skewer in it to keep the layered feast from toppling over. The burger sauce doused the burger from the top down, ensuring the bread could soak up the rich flavour of the sauce.
Not in a hurry the burger was slowly felled with a few masterful strokes of cutlery under the cool shade of the terrace. Fortunately I managed to note down the ingredients, from the top this includes:

• Brioche like burger bun
• Cherry tomatoes
• Roquette & Mesclun salad
• Coeur de Boeuf tomatoes
• Red onion
• Red pepper tapenade
• Melted cheese
• Oven roasted aubergines & courgettes
• Steak with a creme a la Mustard

 However I doubt I could reproduce a burger as good as this one...

Dessert skipped my mains could keep my going all day, or until the next glace maison stand gets stumbled upon..

An organic, largely vegetarian restaurant in France is a novelty, let's face it. A popular one rarer still. And one that's entirely run by a one-man band (minus the drums)? That takes the preverbal bio-biscuit.

Nestled within the pretty medieval backstreets of Aix en Provence, the Cerise sur le Gateau' (and not the souris au chateaux, that was when it was still medieval), is a cosy, delicately-decorated and intimate restaurant, with a locally-sourced, organic menu. No printed menus here, the daily-changing blackboard offers roughly four meat dishes, four vegetarian dishes, and four puds. Mix and match as you wish, to create starters or mains. I plumped for pintade (a quick Google-check told us it was guinea-fowl), served with some sweet seasonal peaches and accompanied with the most deliciously earthy roasted new potatoes I'd ever tasted and salad. My partner chose a delicious aubergine stack, with a dollop of creamy goat's cheese and similar salad. I loved the way the owner/waiter/chef sung out from the open-plan kitchen, asking us to remind him who was having which dish, so he could add zinc-rich pumpkin seeds to my partner's salad (good for avoiding prostate problems) and antioxidant, anti-ageing goji and mulberries to my salad. Personalised dishes indeed!
Pud came in the form of a Corsican Fiadone cheesecake, in truth a coarse cheesecake with a very berry sauce but by the looks of the clean plate at the end, it seemed to do the trick. Both courses were washed down with a glass of local wine - Provençal rose for me, warming red for lui.

Aside from the perfectly presented, nutritious and delicious cuisine, the star of the show was the owner come chef come waiter come pot-wash. Whilst his style of service was more direct than back-bendingly friendly, the speed at which he juggled his many hats, and created his cooked-from-scratch dishes was impressive. His air of confidence regarding his ability not to disappoint, and to keep all balls in the air, clearly comes from nights of positive feedback - several times loyal locals popped by to say hello and discuss a table booking for later that week. With no more than three small tables inside and four outside, it's the perfect recipe indeed.

The food is beautiful, delicious and straightforward Provençal cuisine. Everything on the menu is made with fresh ingredients, picked up from local vendors at Les Halles market each morning. Even with a relatively small menu, there is something on there for everyone and you certainly can’t go wrong – it’s all very delicious.

On the menu you will find the ‘Plat du Jour’ for 10,50€ and three other options for mains at 9,80€ - a great price and the right amount of food. They do not serve entrées here, only mains, dessert and drinks. The menu does change depending on the season and product availability, but there is always a fish option along with meat or vegetarian dishes (again, subject to change). During the Festival D’Avignon (July 4-25), there will be a new menu and restaurant will be open for both lunch and dinner.

The dishes are made with quality ingredients and are well executed. Not too saucy, cheesy, or greasy, this type of lunch was totally up my alley. French food is amazing, but it can often be quite heavy, especially when on holiday and you are eating out for every meal. Portions at L’Ami Voyage are the perfect size – just the right amount of food to feel satisfied, but not comatose (you can leave that for dinner).

When I visited L’Ami Voyage, the Plat du Jour was a type of Moroccan lamb meatball served with tzatziki, lettuce and tomatoes – my friend enjoyed it immensely. I ordered the salad (not always on the menu), which was an absolutely stunning Niçoise. Normally I avoid this famous French salad because 80% of the time they are quite terrible – previously frozen vegetables, questionable eggs and too oily dressing. BUT! This salad was magnificently fresh and delightful, and I did not regret my decision. Each dish had the perfect amount of food and flavour. Here, they care a lot about the food and the service, and you can tell.

The service, food and atmosphere were all on point. It would have been easy to sit there all day drinking my rosé, but alas, all good things come to an end. But not before desert! As a desert lover, this was my favourite part of the meal (if I HAD to choose). The beautiful cakes and tarts are out on display as you walk in, so it’s pretty hard saying no when you’ve already seen how amazing they look. I chose the Fiadone Corse – a type cheesecake from the Island of Corsica. It was light and lemon flavoured… a little slice of heaven.

Outside you will find a small and intimate terrace, but the long narrow restaurant is beautifully decorated and a great place to sit to enjoy your meal. The atmosphere is inviting, comfortable and cozy – as I said before, you won’t want to leave. At the back, the doors are kept open when the weather is nice and you will also find two small tables in the courtyard. The room is relatively small without too many tables crammed so you can enjoy your meal in peace, unlike the massive terraces on Place D’Horloges (which I tend to avoid). Cool books, art, posters and a metal robot are all part of the very well chosen décor.

When you are done eating, be sure to check out the ‘library’ upstairs. The walls are lined with bookcases filled with books. On a sunny day, the lighting up there is absolutely beautiful. All the books are for sale and most are in French, but even if you aren’t in the market for new reading material, it is still worth a look. A very beautiful space.

On holiday, it can be tough to pick a restaurant – you are usually tired, already hungry and there are a million choices. And you certainly don’t want to make the wrong choice. So if you are visiting Avignon, be sure to stop by L’Ami Voyage if you are in need of a truly delicious lunch. Classic, simple and beautiful food, a meal here will leave you feeling happy and satisfied, not ripped off.

Avignon has lots of great restaurants, but my recommendation is to stay away from the big plazas and giant terraces. You won’t find the same level of service or care and quality in the food. L’Ami Voyage is a hidden gem that is totally worth checking out. Everything about eating here is memorable and gratifying. Just like you’ve been invited to eat ‘chez vos amis’.

The Bistro’s success is perhaps due to the fact it has found a winning formula and it sticks to it. It offers a daily set menu only, but it does this brilliantly and with the sort of generous-spirited hospitality that makes you want to return again and again. The set menu costs €45 at lunch and €51 in the evening, and includes starter, main course, cheese, choice of desserts, wine and coffee. The menu varies; at the time of writing the dishes of the day included tête de veau, lamb, spit roast Bresse chicken, cassoulet and aioli.

The restaurant is located in a handsome, traditional building, shaded by ancient plane trees. The terrace is a pleasant place to enjoy an aperitif or coffee after your meal, and there is convenient, CCTV-protected car park next door.

The dining room is traditional in style: stone walls, zinc-topped tables, a large bar and black and white photos of celebrities on the walls. The atmosphere is convivial – it is the sort of place that you strike up conversation with diners on the next table – and there is even one long table which, if not used by a large party, may be shared with other people.

On our last visit, a Wednesday lunch in low season, the restaurant was full. Wednesday is cassoulet day and people come from miles around. Today there was a choice of starter; snails or a bacon and egg frisée salad. The nutty-flavoured snails were truly excellent, and the salad vinaigrette was absolutely spot-on. This is what le Bistrot du Paradou excels at: simple food, done really well.

The cassoulet arrived in an enormous earthenware dish, from which you help yourself. I have had bad experiences with this dish in other restaurants: too often it is grey, solid and uninspiring. This cassoulet was rich and delicious with the pork and duck grilled crisp on top. Despite the fact that this is the world’s most filling dish, we all ate second and then third helpings.

Although we were all extremely full by now, we gave into the temptations of the cheese course and were left to tuck into a tray of oozing, ripe local cheeses.

Normally I wouldn’t eat pudding after ingesting such large quantities of food, but there is something about a set menu that encourages greed. Desserts included apple or walnut tarts, quality ice creams and a few French classics. The chocolate mousse was good, the raspberry ice cream delicious and the rum baba arrived with a full bottle of rum and instructions to help ourselves.

The service couldn’t have been more affable or helpful. One of our party asked (in advance) for an alternative to cassoulet, and they rustled her up a chicken supreme instead. A mention of an invalided friend elicited an offer of take-away dishes for her. It is this genuine friendliness that brings people back to le Bistrot du Paradou year after year.

Although the Bistrot changed managers a couple of years ago, it has retained all those qualities which made it so popular. If you want to come in high season, book well in advance. And of course, remember to choose when to come according to what’s on the menu that day.

Positives:
Great atmosphere
Good value if you eat and drink well
Friendly, hospitable staff
Hearty, tasty cooking

Negatives:
Not great value if you don’t eat or drink much
Little choice

Opening Hours:

Winter (Oct – May): open Tues – Fri lunch, Fri & Sat & dinner.
Summer (May – Sept): closed Sun & Mon, open lunch and dinner every other day.

(No website).

Arriving too late to be in with a prime spot on the fountain filled terrace, there was just one table spare but inside - deemed as as a good sign I took it.

The restaurant features a relaxed shaded terrace and a cosy authentic interior equipped with comfy sofas and bold paintings on the wall,  all this with a hint of Savoyard chic.

Looking out on the boutique lined street, I turn to the menu which features a range of set menus from a pick and mix lunch menu all the way to a veritable vegetarian menu. All very tempting but a light lunch is needed as the afternoon agenda is fully loaded...

On the menu, a salade fraîcheur, with a spaghetti of raw  fennel, carrot, pepper, red onion & courgette, topped with a (slightly too salty) coriander infused marinated chicken. Pesto decorated the bowler hat dish, which was mopped up with a wheaty compagne bread. The dessert de jour was an oven baked apple, sitting in a spicey buttery sauce with a scoop if rum and raisin ice cream. Simple yet effective.

All in all the food is widely well presented, whilst the service has a relaxed warmness. The menus creep up quite steeply in price, reflecting it's gourmet label, whilst the wine menu rests pretty reasonable.
Numero 9 scores a numero 8 from me..

Restaurant Sous les Micocouliers in Eygalières comes close to my personal ideal. The first thing that charms about this restaurant is its setting. It is located in an especially pretty village, down a quiet back street from where you walk directly into a large walled garden, filled with comfortable wicker chairs and white-clothed tables. In fine weather, you eat here, in the dappled shade of the 200 year-old hackberry trees which give the restaurant its name. The garden is a delight, with aromatic shrubs, old benches, an ancient well and the occasional waft of baking bread from the boulangerie next door. In colder weather, you dine in the restored 17th century house, an equally attractive setting with its whitewashed beams, stone floors and open fireplaces.

Sous les Micocouliers is run by Pierre-Louis Poize, a young, ambitious chef who studied in Paris under some of the greats of modern French cuisine, including Alain Ducasse, before returning to his native Provence to start his own business. His style of fine cuisine is modern, fresh and innovative, blending flavours from around the world with traditional Provençale classics.

Pierre-Louis changes his menu every month to reflect what is in season locally. A typical autumn à la carte menu includes starters of cep mushrooms tart tatin with caramalised onion, coppa and lightly perfumed cream (€13) and pan-fried duck foie gras with figs (€20). Main courses include a filo pastry wrapped rabbit and foie gras with almonds and rosemary (€25) and an ‘assiette gourmande’ selection of the different seasonal dishes (€21). Desserts range from pear poached in saffron with sorbet and chocolate, and mint-flavoured panna cotta with roast pineapple and candied pumpkin (€10 each).

We chose the excellent value Matisse set menu (€29). The meal started with four elegant mini-starters served on a slate: a rich pumpkin emulsion, unusual duck broth with gingerbread, tuna tartare and a divine tempura stuffed mushroom. This set menu offered a choice of three main courses, including a vegetarian stuffed butternut squash; we opted for white fish with mushroom and butternut which was beautifully cooked and beautifully presented. To finish, we opted for a selection of ripe local cheeses though we could have chosen any of the à la carte desserts.

Each dish was beautifully presented on the plate, but never overdone or too fussy. We enjoyed Pierre-Louis’ innovative touches and hints of spices from around the world. Although he is clearly a creative cook, he says he wants his cuisine to remain “accessible” and none of his flavour combinations is too outré.

The wine list has a good selection of reasonably-priced local wines as well as fine wines. We enjoyed the option of a different glass of wine chosen especially to complement each course. At €16, this is good value, especially as our glasses were kept filled all meal long.

The service was equally good. Young, uniformed staff were attentive and friendly and keen to practice their English. All too often, staff at this quality of restaurant are distant and formal, but here the service was unstuffy and charming.

I know with certainty that I will eat here many more times in future. Next visit, I am tempted to try the menu de degustation at €69. My only hesitation at recommending this place is that it may become too popular and I’ll never get a table in future….

The positives:
Beautiful setting
Fine food
29€ Matisse menu
Excellent service

The negatives: I couldn’t find any

Le Bistrot des Alpilles is located on the road ringing the historic centre of town, the large pavement awning making it look like every other tourist restaurant. It is, in fact, a rather pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by. Seated in the shade of ancient plane trees, you can admire the beautiful people shopping in St Remy’s boutiques. The only downside is the view of constantly passing cars.

A profusion of restaurant guide stickers on the door is the first indication that you are entering a well-known and popular establishment. Established in 1984, Le Bistrot has built up a loyal local following. Although we visited in low season, the restaurant at lunchtime was buzzing and, judging by the southern accent of most of the other diners, it was full of residents rather than holidaymakers.

The interior is classic French bistro, with dark painted walls, wooden tables and tiled floor. Only the bullfighting paintings on the walls remind you that you are near the bull-fighting heartlands of the Camargue and not in Paris. The welcome was fast and friendly; within seconds of arriving, we were shown to the last free table and the menu was in our hands.

The menu is straightforward, offering a smallish selection of French/Provençale classics with the addition of a few exotic touches. Starters include guinea fowl millefeuille with foie gras (€7), kebab of scallops and chorizo with chilli sauce (€14), seabream and prawn spring rolls (€8). Our curried vegetable soup was excellent and well-priced (€6).

Among the main courses, there is much to delight carnivores: slow-cooked beef cheeks (€13), pot au feu with bone marrow (€16), T-bone veal with mushrooms (€26). The meat-free options are restricted to giant prawns with rocket gnocchi (€24) or a dish of the day of roast cod steaks. Catering for true vegetarians seems not even to have been considered.

The signature dish, suckling lamb with gratin dauphinois (€17) was meltingly tender and flavoursome. However, the dish of the day, cod with red pepper sauce and a courgette tian (€12.50), was slightly disappointing, arriving lukewarm and with a meagre portion of sauce. Presentation is simple and portion size is ample without being excessive.

The wine list is filled with a mouth-watering selection of southern French wines. The intelligently presented list divides wines into price categories: 20€ for ‘decent’ wine; €25 for ‘pleasant’, €35 for ‘sublime’ and so on, with a few ‘superstar’ top Chateauneuf du Pape wines for those wishing to splurge.

Decent wine is also available by the glass or carafe, though the 50cl of rose at €17 seemed steep, given the choice of inexpensive roses available locally.

The dessert menu had much to gladden the heart of the sweet-toothed, such as home-made chocolate mousse (€6), tarte tatin (€8) and a selection of North African patisseries (€7). For those too full to eat a whole pudding, there is an irresistible selection of cafés gourmands; an expresso coffee served with a mini classic French dessert, such as baba au rhum or tarte tropezienne. We chose the latter – the creamy sponge was perfectly light and rich – and a full-sized moelleux au chocolat – a baked chocolate sponge with a melting centre (€6). I should here confess that I am an enthusiastic eater of this this particular chocolaty indulgence and have sampled many dozens in restaurants across France. This was one of the best I have ever eaten: rich, dark and warmly oozing, and the cherry on the cake, literally, was the candied cherry hidden in the middle. This more than made up for my rather ordinary main course.

Overall, we enjoyed our meal and liked the ambiance and service. We left contented with our meal and vowing to visit again.

The positives:
Friendly, informal service
Unpretentious food, good quantities
Interesting international touches
Excellent wine list
Good value food
Open all year

The negatives:
Expensive drinks (e.g. €10 grappa)
Unheated plates
Little for non-meat-eaters

The small terrace and interior with low lighting and a calm atmosphere seemed the perfect place to enjoy a glass of rose and look out to the streets and walls of Avignon. Once seated on a table at the back of the terrace, which was nearly full when we arrived, we were given menus, water and a wine menu. Quickly opting for a glass of house rose we settled down to read the menus. There were a few menu options to choose from, a starter and main course for 30€, a main course and dessert for 26€ or a starter, main and dessert for 37€. You can have any of the dishes on the menu and with only a few options for each course the menu was small but with seemingly fresh dishes.

Going for the slightly smaller menu, with the idea of sharing a dessert in mind, we went for a starter and main course each. The choices on the menus consisted of fresh fish, rich succulent meat options and lighter vegetable dishes, so far we were impressed.

Once we had ordered the waitress bought us over an amuse bouche of fresh raw salmon slices with a dill and cream sauce. It was the perfect start to the meal; with the exceptionally fresh fish and light flavour of the dill (which is not normally for me) it cleared the palette ready for the starters.

For the starters we ordered the salmon tartar and the lobster risotto, and being big fans of sharing we shared each. The salmon tartar was just as fresh as the amuse bouche salmon cut into delicious bite sized pieces with a combination of black pepper, a squeeze of lemon and balsamic drizzle topped with an iceberg lettuce leaf. I found this dish to be so fresh and light and exactly what I fancied after a hot stroll around the city. The lobster risotto was slightly more rich and creamy, again the lobster was fresh but the sauce was a rich combination of cream, butter and lobster bisque. It was slightly too rich for me but across the table it had been enjoyed thoroughly, so he swiflty polished off a part of my half too.

With a good rest from the starters (about 10 minutes) our main courses came out. We had opted for the beef with pot potato and the prawn penne with soy sauce and vegetables. Having the penne placed in front of me I was immediately jealous of the beef on the other side of the table, but I was not to be disappointed. The pasta was not too soft or too hard, the prawns were big and juicy with fresh vegetables and a sweet sauce of soy and oil. The only thing that struck me as a downside to this dish was the amount of oil, at the bottom of the bowl the oil seemed to be have gathered in a little pool - maybe a bit to heavy handed on the oil from the chef but the penne and, the prawns particularly, were good nonetheless.

After tucking into his beef I was looking at a big grin on other side of the table. The beef had been cooked to perfection with the slices in a rich gravy and the buttery half mashed potato pot on the side proving the perfect accompaniment to soak up the jus. I obviously had to have a try and I have to say it was particularly taste bud pleasing! Again, a bit on the richer side with the butter and jus but if rich French food is what you are after then this would be the perfect place to go, perhaps an excellent choice in the winter/autumn when a warm rich meal is just what you need.

Next up we decided to choose a sharing dessert, we wanted something light as our waistbands were already bursting. So we opted for a trio sorbets. The trio was slightly different and consisted of a Pina Colada sorbet, mojito sorbet and the more standard flavour of strawberry. Arriving in cute little white pots we immediately got stuck in. The strawberry was the light refreshing taste you expect from sorbet, the Pina Colada was creamy and tasted, well, just like a Pina Colada. The mojito flavour was the only one I was a little unsure of, the alcohol came through slightly too much and we both agreed we would have preferred a more minty flavour to this one.

With the bill coming to around €70 (with only one glass of wine) we were extremely happy, and extremely full. All in all CO2 is a great mix of modern French cuisine if not slightly over rich and powerful in places, but the service is friendly the ingredients extremely fresh and the terrace a perfect romantic quiet spot for the evening.