Le Bistrot des Alpilles Restaurant Review

Le Bistrot des Alpilles is located on the road ringing the historic centre of town, the large pavement awning making it look like every other tourist restaurant. It is, in fact, a rather pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by. Seated in the shade of ancient plane trees, you can admire the beautiful people shopping in St Remy’s boutiques. The only downside is the view of constantly passing cars.

A profusion of restaurant guide stickers on the door is the first indication that you are entering a well-known and popular establishment. Established in 1984, Le Bistrot has built up a loyal local following. Although we visited in low season, the restaurant at lunchtime was buzzing and, judging by the southern accent of most of the other diners, it was full of residents rather than holidaymakers.

The interior is classic French bistro, with dark painted walls, wooden tables and tiled floor. Only the bullfighting paintings on the walls remind you that you are near the bull-fighting heartlands of the Camargue and not in Paris. The welcome was fast and friendly; within seconds of arriving, we were shown to the last free table and the menu was in our hands.

The menu is straightforward, offering a smallish selection of French/Provençale classics with the addition of a few exotic touches. Starters include guinea fowl millefeuille with foie gras (€7), kebab of scallops and chorizo with chilli sauce (€14), seabream and prawn spring rolls (€8). Our curried vegetable soup was excellent and well-priced (€6).

Among the main courses, there is much to delight carnivores: slow-cooked beef cheeks (€13), pot au feu with bone marrow (€16), T-bone veal with mushrooms (€26). The meat-free options are restricted to giant prawns with rocket gnocchi (€24) or a dish of the day of roast cod steaks. Catering for true vegetarians seems not even to have been considered.

The signature dish, suckling lamb with gratin dauphinois (€17) was meltingly tender and flavoursome. However, the dish of the day, cod with red pepper sauce and a courgette tian (€12.50), was slightly disappointing, arriving lukewarm and with a meagre portion of sauce. Presentation is simple and portion size is ample without being excessive.

The wine list is filled with a mouth-watering selection of southern French wines. The intelligently presented list divides wines into price categories: 20€ for ‘decent’ wine; €25 for ‘pleasant’, €35 for ‘sublime’ and so on, with a few ‘superstar’ top Chateauneuf du Pape wines for those wishing to splurge.

Decent wine is also available by the glass or carafe, though the 50cl of rose at €17 seemed steep, given the choice of inexpensive roses available locally.

The dessert menu had much to gladden the heart of the sweet-toothed, such as home-made chocolate mousse (€6), tarte tatin (€8) and a selection of North African patisseries (€7). For those too full to eat a whole pudding, there is an irresistible selection of cafés gourmands; an expresso coffee served with a mini classic French dessert, such as baba au rhum or tarte tropezienne. We chose the latter – the creamy sponge was perfectly light and rich – and a full-sized moelleux au chocolat – a baked chocolate sponge with a melting centre (€6). I should here confess that I am an enthusiastic eater of this this particular chocolaty indulgence and have sampled many dozens in restaurants across France. This was one of the best I have ever eaten: rich, dark and warmly oozing, and the cherry on the cake, literally, was the candied cherry hidden in the middle. This more than made up for my rather ordinary main course.

Overall, we enjoyed our meal and liked the ambiance and service. We left contented with our meal and vowing to visit again.

The positives:
Friendly, informal service
Unpretentious food, good quantities
Interesting international touches
Excellent wine list
Good value food
Open all year

The negatives:
Expensive drinks (e.g. €10 grappa)
Unheated plates
Little for non-meat-eaters