Sous les Micocouliers Restaurant - Review

Restaurant Sous les Micocouliers in Eygalières comes close to my personal ideal. The first thing that charms about this restaurant is its setting. It is located in an especially pretty village, down a quiet back street from where you walk directly into a large walled garden, filled with comfortable wicker chairs and white-clothed tables. In fine weather, you eat here, in the dappled shade of the 200 year-old hackberry trees which give the restaurant its name. The garden is a delight, with aromatic shrubs, old benches, an ancient well and the occasional waft of baking bread from the boulangerie next door. In colder weather, you dine in the restored 17th century house, an equally attractive setting with its whitewashed beams, stone floors and open fireplaces.

Sous les Micocouliers is run by Pierre-Louis Poize, a young, ambitious chef who studied in Paris under some of the greats of modern French cuisine, including Alain Ducasse, before returning to his native Provence to start his own business. His style of fine cuisine is modern, fresh and innovative, blending flavours from around the world with traditional Provençale classics.

Pierre-Louis changes his menu every month to reflect what is in season locally. A typical autumn à la carte menu includes starters of cep mushrooms tart tatin with caramalised onion, coppa and lightly perfumed cream (€13) and pan-fried duck foie gras with figs (€20). Main courses include a filo pastry wrapped rabbit and foie gras with almonds and rosemary (€25) and an ‘assiette gourmande’ selection of the different seasonal dishes (€21). Desserts range from pear poached in saffron with sorbet and chocolate, and mint-flavoured panna cotta with roast pineapple and candied pumpkin (€10 each).

We chose the excellent value Matisse set menu (€29). The meal started with four elegant mini-starters served on a slate: a rich pumpkin emulsion, unusual duck broth with gingerbread, tuna tartare and a divine tempura stuffed mushroom. This set menu offered a choice of three main courses, including a vegetarian stuffed butternut squash; we opted for white fish with mushroom and butternut which was beautifully cooked and beautifully presented. To finish, we opted for a selection of ripe local cheeses though we could have chosen any of the à la carte desserts.

Each dish was beautifully presented on the plate, but never overdone or too fussy. We enjoyed Pierre-Louis’ innovative touches and hints of spices from around the world. Although he is clearly a creative cook, he says he wants his cuisine to remain “accessible” and none of his flavour combinations is too outré.

The wine list has a good selection of reasonably-priced local wines as well as fine wines. We enjoyed the option of a different glass of wine chosen especially to complement each course. At €16, this is good value, especially as our glasses were kept filled all meal long.

The service was equally good. Young, uniformed staff were attentive and friendly and keen to practice their English. All too often, staff at this quality of restaurant are distant and formal, but here the service was unstuffy and charming.

I know with certainty that I will eat here many more times in future. Next visit, I am tempted to try the menu de degustation at €69. My only hesitation at recommending this place is that it may become too popular and I’ll never get a table in future….

The positives:
Beautiful setting
Fine food
29€ Matisse menu
Excellent service

The negatives: I couldn’t find any