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24 Hours in Digne les Bains

Train des Pignes, swimming, a visit to the Geopark & exploring the mountains

featured in News & reviews Author Stephen McGurk, Provence Reporter Updated

Needing something a little different to the views on the Riviera, a venture into the mountain landscape of Digne-les-Bains provided exactly that. It’s rare that the journey actually becomes part of the break itself, but on the Train de Pignes from Nice that’s exactly what it feels like.

A mile or two outside Nice, the countryside opens up and for three-hours plus you are treated to views of rivers, rolling hills, cliffs and beautiful rural train stations along the way.

Digne has plenty of hotels and accommodation to choose from and deciding on a more rustic approach we booked a Bed & Breakfast just on the outskirts of town.

From the train station a 1.5km walk takes you into town and towards the cafés and restaurants along the main street of Boulevard de Gassendi. We sat down to a delicious, and much needed Plat du Jour at Palladio Cafe close to the Tourist Office. Many options for lunch are available but the empty seats in the sunshine swayed our decision to eat here.

Our lovely, if somewhat eccentric host of the B&B then picked us up and brought us to her beautiful home. She prepared some tea for us on the balcony and she insisted that we treat this as “our home”. Taking our books down to beside the goldfish pond in the large garden; we lounged in the sun and enjoyed the company of a few lovely dogs, whilst the gardener tended to some herbs in the classically straggly garden.

a swimming lake in digne les bains

With many hours of sunshine left a trip to Plan d’Eau Des Ferreols outdoor swimming pool is a great way to spend an afternoon. We threw down towels on the grass beside the water and let the view and the sounds filter in. The area includes a climbing wall, table tennis, a beach volleyball court, a fishing lake and a restaurant serving pizzas, burgers and ice creams, although the area is perfect for a picnic.

The fresh water pool is great for a refreshing swim and the backdrop of mountains and parapenters drifting overhead deliver spectacular sights accompanied by the peaceful sounds of people of all ages enjoying themselves.

After basking in the heat at Plan d’Eau des Ferreols and with dinner now required, venturing towards Boulevard Gassendi and Rue de l’Habac offered up a selection of restaurants providing a variety of menus for every mood. The wide ranging menu at La Taverne made it an easy choice for us and a pizza and tartiflette were excellent choices accompanied by some local wine.

A beautiful sunset stroll in lengthening shadows along Promenade du Tibet, beside the river with luscious green mountains either side, was the perfect way to end our first day in Digne-les-Bains.

The next morning our host had a fantastic Provençal breakfast waiting for us as we stumbled from a deep sleep that only the peacefulness of the countryside can induce. It included dried fruits, goat’s cheese, Provençal ham, some tartine and coffee. We again took this on the balcony and enjoyed a view across blossoming fields with sparse farmhouses in the distance and truly feeling the atmosphere spent more than an hour over breakfast.

mountain views in north provence

For outdoor activities, the Geoparc de Haute Provence, to the north of Digne, is a nature reserve where you can take a walk around and discover the landscape. Along the way you will find waterfalls, pieces of contemporary art and encounter millions of years of history. We chose to take a hike to St. Pancrace chapel from where we encountered stunning views over vast mountain ranges and over the town of Digne itself. It took 2 hours for a round trip although with a picnic and a more leisurely pace, a whole afternoon could easily drift by.

Along the way there are marker posts with information regarding the surroundings and the history of the area.
Digne is also famous for its thermal baths and the spa at Les Thermes is open every weekday and Saturday morning all year round. There are a wide range of treatments available in the spa, so check the website for further info.

The last train leaves for Nice at 17:35 although a bus also runs the same route and Blablacar is very popular in France for car sharing to other destinations.