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Market Day in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, near Avignon

A river flows through this beautiful Provençal town

featured in Activity reviews Author Holly Millar, Provence Reporter Updated

A small island in the middle of Provence, L’Ile-sur-la-Sorgue is famous for it’s markets, antiques, water wheels and canals. The name itself translates to Island on the Sorgue (the name of the river) and some have even dubbed it the ‘Venice of Provence’. Sounds cool right? I’m not sure about the whole ‘Venice’ thing, but this town is definitely worth a day trip.

I decided to check it out on a Thursday, one of their market days. Vendors were selling the typical Provençal market goods; fresh fruits and vegetables, tapenade, honey, assortments of cheeses, cured meats, brightly coloured pottery, clothing and leather products, etc. The stalls were lined up in the narrow winding streets, which made for an interesting meander through the market.

L’Ile-sur-la-Sorgue is known for its antiques, so be sure to visit the market on Sunday morning for the ‘brocante’ if you are interested in some of these pieces. It’s always good to ‘try’ and bargain for that super old set of teacups, remember these markets aren’t typically the most inexpensive display of good. You will certainly find some one-of-a-kind pieces, but don’t be shocked by the prices.

The Thursday market tends to be mellower than Sunday’s, but it still offers plenty to see, hear and taste. You can wander through the streets sampling the various Provençal products while listening to different musicians playing on each corner. If you don’t know where to start, follow signs to the Tourist Office, pick up a map (and ask any questions you might have) then just follow the row of vendors.

Make sure you arrive in the morning as the market finishes around lunchtime and you don’t want to miss all the good stuff. If you’ve made a really early start, stop for a coffee at Café de la Place (around the corner from the Tourist Office), have a seat on the terrace and watch the hustle and bustle of the market.

Once you’ve seen enough of all the delicious food and you are properly hungry, go try one of the restaurants on Quai Jean Jaurés. With beautiful narrow terraces perched right above the canal, you can enjoy a delicious meal and a cool breeze in a truly beautiful setting. Keep in mind this is a pretty touristy area, so be prepared for touristy prices. If you are more of a picnicking type, grab some goodies from the market and head over to the Jardin Public for your own personal feast.

Another ‘must see’ in L’Ile-sur-la-Sorgue are the ancient waterwheels throughout the town. If you picked up a map from the Tourist Office, you can follow the walking tour to see all the waterwheels and experience the beauty of the canals and rivers. The water from the Sorgue River once provided the power for the town, although the waterwheels are no longer connected to any mills, they continue to turn and are really quite stunning to look at.

After a few hours here, you will quickly see that L’Ile-sur-la-Sorgue is not your average Provençal town. The clear water running through the beautiful canals certainly gives the town special character. Brilliant green seaweed can be seen just beneath the surface and you can watch the baby ducklings riding the current. On a particularly hot day, I recommend dipping your feet in the ice-cold water.

Can’t make it on a market day? No worries. There are lots of cool stores to discover. Selling everything from funky clothes, jewellery, to regional products and of course, antiques. And don’t miss out on one of the gourmet chocolate shops. Be sure to visit ‘Les Delices du Luberon’ if you missed the market. Inside you will find huge selection of regional products, all in one spot. Perfect for souvenirs or gifts, you can pick up tapenades, jams, sweets, soaps… everything Provençal. Plus, you can sample a lot of the products, which is always a bonus.

From Avignon, just follow the D31 then follow signs for the town, it should take about 35 minutes. Driving is the best option if you plan on checking out some other towns along the way or making some big purchases, but taking the bus or train from Avignon is very easy, cheap and efficient. For the bus, get on line #6 and it will only cost 2€ with departures from Avignon’s bus station every hour (check schedules for most up to date information). The train costs about 5€ and also has frequent departures, both drop you off right in the centre of town. Finding parking on a market day can be an absolute nightmare, so I recommend taking the bus or train.

Location

Map of the surrounding area