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Foraging for Mushrooms in Provence Review
Cèpes (porcini mushrooms), chanterelles & sanguins all grow in the forests of Provence
November in Provence is a month of showers, overflowing riverbeds and muddy paths. But in between the rainy days, the sun comes out again in shining form, reaching the wet ground for a temporary warmth. It's the time to head for the forests in search of hidden treasures, the wild mushrooms that spring up from the heavy dampness of the soil.
Since we know very little about wild mushrooms, and are petrified by the notion of making a fatal choice, we followed a friend who has extensive knowledge of the fungi and who, after a season of regular consumption, is still alive.
On our trek through the damp forest, we learned that the best mushrooms are also the most secretive ones, well camouflaged against or under the ground cover. In Provence, the most sought-after mushrooms are the cèpes (porcini mushrooms), the chanterelles, and the sanguins (red-colored mushrooms that "bleed" when you break them). That day we found plenty of sanguins, no chanterelles, and only one cèpe. In addition, we picked up a yellow coral-type fungus and a variety of unknowns, to later show the pharmacist in the village.
The lone cèpe was a disappointment since our recipe called for 6-8. Our guide told us that last year, the forest yielded kilos of cèpes, but, alas, not this year. The forest is not a supermarché.
After careful consultation of our mushroom guide books, we took the basket to the pharmacien. In France, pharmacists take at least one year of mycology courses during their studies. Some are certified mycologists, and most, especially in the regions of wild mushrooms, are willing to give their opinion on your harvest. Our treasures received approval, that is none of the mushrooms were lethal or mildly poisonous. A few of the unknowns were just not edible in the gourmet sense.
So, with our lone cèpe, we trekked home, by way of the supermarket to buy the remaining ones for the recipe. When it was time to pay, we understood why these mushrooms are indeed the treasures of the forest.
